Thus it was that the day after our wedding we set out for Heathrow where we boarded an air Kenya flight to Nairobi and then on to Antananarivo (Tana to locals) the capital of Madagascar. We were
collected at the airport and taken to the lokanga boutique hotel for our first night. The hustle and bustle of a busy capital city in a developing country came as a bit of a shock to me but our hotel was a charming oasis in the French colonial style overlooking the city. We stayed in the hotel for the afternoon, soaking up the atmosphere, enjoying the traditional food and fantastic fruit juices and appreciating the sunset.
collected at the airport and taken to the lokanga boutique hotel for our first night. The hustle and bustle of a busy capital city in a developing country came as a bit of a shock to me but our hotel was a charming oasis in the French colonial style overlooking the city. We stayed in the hotel for the afternoon, soaking up the atmosphere, enjoying the traditional food and fantastic fruit juices and appreciating the sunset.
The next morning (or middle of the night!) we started the next stretch of our journey with two connecting flights to antsiranana or Diego Suarez to the locals. Here we met our guide for the rest of our time on the mainland, Laurent. We spent the morning exploring the town and seeing the local markets although without our suncream and insect repellent we were reluctant to get out of the car! After lunch we drove out of the city towards the outskirts of the Montagna d'Ambre national park. The roads were somewhat bumpy to say the least and the drive took a number of hours. We spent the afternoon exploring the rainforest and seeing our first lemurs (common brown and crowned) and chameleons. For the next two nights we stayed at the litchi tree guest house. The beautifully appointed property was in stark contrast to the surrounding poverty. It's french owner was a superb cook and we enjoyed beautiful food. The room was lovely although we only had electricity for a few hours in the evening. We enjoyed a full day in the national park on the Tuesday and a particular highlight for James was finding the worlds smallest chameleon.
On the Wednesday we journeyed onwards to the Ankarana national park. I found this by far the hardest day as the heat in this arid area was oppressive and the walking was tough! The scenery was stark but magnificent and we saw our third species of lemur - the sportive lemur. By the time we reached our lunchtime stop I could barely stumble one foot in front of the other and I think James was quite concerned about me. I revived sightly as we sat in the picnic area and shared our lunch with a crowned lemur. Afterwards I agreed to walk down to a bat cave, where the footing was treacherous and where my newly dodgy knee almost gave out on me. The walk was curtailed due to my exhaustion and we travelled on to the Iharana Bush Camp where we were to spend the next two days. By the time we arrived I felt like I'd been through a spin cycle backwards. Iharana was not what I was expecting - it was truly a bush camp but a rather luxury one - all the same I had anticipated a honeymoon with locking doors and floor to ceiling walls. As it was we shared our room with a multitude of frogs but had a truly amazing experience and I wouldn't have swapped it for the world. Thankfully the bed was surrounded by an industrial strength mosquito net - so much so that I struggled to get in and on more than one occasion brought the whole structure crashing down.
The Thursday saw us start the day with an early morning walk - or so I naively thought when we set out, little knowing that we were to scale the nearby tsingy. It turned increasingly treacherous and was akin to rock climbing but without any safety equipment. It reached a point where going onwards seemed the safer option than trying to turn around and the panoramic views from the top were magnificent. The descent wasn't what I expected - we walked down the inside of the tsingy through a network of caves. Yet another life experience I'd never expected to have. On reaching the bottom we were given the afternoon to relax and enjoy ourselves. We reached straight for our books and sequestered two sunloungers overlooking the lake and the tsingy and spent a blissful afternoon. As the sun began to set we were ushered to a traditional madagascan rowing boat to sail around the lake with cocktails and watch the sun go down - very romantic! Following another fabulous dinner of fresh fish we retired to our room for our last night on mainland Madagascar.
Friday saw another prolonged drive along more unmade roads as we headed towards the honeymoon island of Tsarabanjina. Shortly before reaching the harbour for the first stretch of our journey by boat we stopped at a Madagascan plantation where we bought some vanilla and coffee. The scent of them still lingers and it is truly spectacular. At the harbour we had a very stressful experience with more hostile Madagascan officials and we were marched around the harbour town having to show our passport to all and sundry before being mobbed beside the boat as we embarked for the first speed boat trip. After 40 minutes on the water we arrived on the Island of Nosy Be. Here we were met by another car and driver and were transferred to the fabulous Manga Soa hotel. We enjoyed an A La Carte lunch and met 'African Sam' - a small cream coloured dog who reminded me of my parents. We then had a couple of hours to sit by the pool and enjoy the views and the passing dolphins before being collected by the Constance Lodge speedboat.
For me this was where the more traditional aspect of the honeymoon started. We disembarked onto a white sandy beach and were met and escorted to the bar area where we were given iced tea and introduced to the ethos of the island. Afterwards we were walked through the centre of the island to our bungalow where the massive double bed afforded us view straight out the patio doors to the balcony and beyond to the beach and the ocean. Flower petals had been scattered throughout the bungalow and it was beautifully appointed. This part of the honeymoon was all inclusive meaning that we had access to the mini bar, island activities and all meals and drinks at the restaurant. Given the company of my esteemed husband I was surprised that when we left the bar had not been drunk dry!
The ensuing week was spent in idyllic harmony and relaxation. We both consumed roughly a book a day, luxuriating in the warm temperatures and guilt free existence of being uncoupled from technology. Over the course of the week we went on a guided botanical walk of the Island, enjoyed sunset cocktails on the hill and on a boat. We went snorkelling most days, equipment being provided and saw some truly incredible fish. One day we went out snorkelling on the boat and saw an even greater variety in the natural reefs - sadly that day James got slightly sunburnt. One day we took a sailing lesson and James enjoyed taking the lead while I clung on terrified for dear life. Later that particular day he took me on a brief kayaking trip. We enjoyed a complimentary couples massage and I made a few forays to the shop where we bought a handful of souvenirs and gifts. We also enjoyed a romantic candle-lit dinner on the beach one night. Breakfasts and lunches were buffets, with a heavy bias towards fresh fish. Dinners were a la carte. The overall experience was one of indulgence and luxury and we've vowed to have a similar holiday once every five years. Here's hoping that that plan doesn't have to meet with reality too soon!
All too soon our week drew to a close and after a short flight back to Nosy Be we spent our last night in Madagascar back in the Lokanga Boutique Hotel in Antananarivo. Once again we appreciated the food and the hospitality. On Saturday 11th October we began the long and arduous journey home. Our flight back to Kenya was uneventful. There followed 12 hours in the airport waiting for our connecting flight back to Heathrow. At the rate of approximately one second per second (a favourite phrase of James') time passed and with a small amount of duty free to show for our wait we were finally homeward bound. Our honeymoon was over but our life together was only just beginning.
The Thursday saw us start the day with an early morning walk - or so I naively thought when we set out, little knowing that we were to scale the nearby tsingy. It turned increasingly treacherous and was akin to rock climbing but without any safety equipment. It reached a point where going onwards seemed the safer option than trying to turn around and the panoramic views from the top were magnificent. The descent wasn't what I expected - we walked down the inside of the tsingy through a network of caves. Yet another life experience I'd never expected to have. On reaching the bottom we were given the afternoon to relax and enjoy ourselves. We reached straight for our books and sequestered two sunloungers overlooking the lake and the tsingy and spent a blissful afternoon. As the sun began to set we were ushered to a traditional madagascan rowing boat to sail around the lake with cocktails and watch the sun go down - very romantic! Following another fabulous dinner of fresh fish we retired to our room for our last night on mainland Madagascar.
Friday saw another prolonged drive along more unmade roads as we headed towards the honeymoon island of Tsarabanjina. Shortly before reaching the harbour for the first stretch of our journey by boat we stopped at a Madagascan plantation where we bought some vanilla and coffee. The scent of them still lingers and it is truly spectacular. At the harbour we had a very stressful experience with more hostile Madagascan officials and we were marched around the harbour town having to show our passport to all and sundry before being mobbed beside the boat as we embarked for the first speed boat trip. After 40 minutes on the water we arrived on the Island of Nosy Be. Here we were met by another car and driver and were transferred to the fabulous Manga Soa hotel. We enjoyed an A La Carte lunch and met 'African Sam' - a small cream coloured dog who reminded me of my parents. We then had a couple of hours to sit by the pool and enjoy the views and the passing dolphins before being collected by the Constance Lodge speedboat.
For me this was where the more traditional aspect of the honeymoon started. We disembarked onto a white sandy beach and were met and escorted to the bar area where we were given iced tea and introduced to the ethos of the island. Afterwards we were walked through the centre of the island to our bungalow where the massive double bed afforded us view straight out the patio doors to the balcony and beyond to the beach and the ocean. Flower petals had been scattered throughout the bungalow and it was beautifully appointed. This part of the honeymoon was all inclusive meaning that we had access to the mini bar, island activities and all meals and drinks at the restaurant. Given the company of my esteemed husband I was surprised that when we left the bar had not been drunk dry!
The ensuing week was spent in idyllic harmony and relaxation. We both consumed roughly a book a day, luxuriating in the warm temperatures and guilt free existence of being uncoupled from technology. Over the course of the week we went on a guided botanical walk of the Island, enjoyed sunset cocktails on the hill and on a boat. We went snorkelling most days, equipment being provided and saw some truly incredible fish. One day we went out snorkelling on the boat and saw an even greater variety in the natural reefs - sadly that day James got slightly sunburnt. One day we took a sailing lesson and James enjoyed taking the lead while I clung on terrified for dear life. Later that particular day he took me on a brief kayaking trip. We enjoyed a complimentary couples massage and I made a few forays to the shop where we bought a handful of souvenirs and gifts. We also enjoyed a romantic candle-lit dinner on the beach one night. Breakfasts and lunches were buffets, with a heavy bias towards fresh fish. Dinners were a la carte. The overall experience was one of indulgence and luxury and we've vowed to have a similar holiday once every five years. Here's hoping that that plan doesn't have to meet with reality too soon!
All too soon our week drew to a close and after a short flight back to Nosy Be we spent our last night in Madagascar back in the Lokanga Boutique Hotel in Antananarivo. Once again we appreciated the food and the hospitality. On Saturday 11th October we began the long and arduous journey home. Our flight back to Kenya was uneventful. There followed 12 hours in the airport waiting for our connecting flight back to Heathrow. At the rate of approximately one second per second (a favourite phrase of James') time passed and with a small amount of duty free to show for our wait we were finally homeward bound. Our honeymoon was over but our life together was only just beginning.
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